Tranquil Morocco

Just a short update to keep everyone posted, Tangier is pretty quiet in terms of protests. On Sunday there was a small protest in the main part of the city (which is far away from where I am staying) and some windows were broken in a few businesses and banks. However, it seems that some of this may have been caused by a group of rowdy futbol-ers after a game rather than by those seeking reform. World Unite, the organization I am working with, is keeping its volunteers posted of any rumors of protests and has suggested during a few evenings that we stay in our homes. But, these are just precautions and nothing major has occurred here. The general feeling seems to be that the King is well respected, and the protests that have occurred were aimed at reforms only. The only television stations in English are CNN World, BBC, and MSNBC so it is pretty easy to keep abreast on the big news in the region.

Moroccans seem to very genuinely like Americans and the only negative sentiment I've heard was about George Bush, which I saw as a tool to establish some common ground :)

OK-maybe this won't be a short update afterall...

I've now been in Morocco for almost a week and am really enjoying myself! I live in a small 'bungalow' with another volunteer (I guess I am not really a volunteer yet but hope to be soon!) on the compound of the 'Camping Miramonte' where some people actually do camp. The neighborhood is filled with kids playing in the street and the buildings are white and tan. I got the chance to see the inside of one when I was 'intercepted' by a Moroccan-American named Richard on my way home one day. He at first thought I was French and then we started speaking in English once he realized how bad my French is:) Apparently he was part of the beat/hippie crowd in the 60s and 70s. He introduced me to his two daughters and then I went to their house and briefly met the family. The outside may have been a little dusty but the inside was gorgeous! It was very ornate with rugs and pillows everywhere. Pictures of family weddings were displayed everywhere and a few younger family members were sprawled out watching TV. The house seemed to be down endless alleyways but taking a different way out I saw I was just two doors down from Miramonte's doorstep! My neighborhood overlooks the sea and is home to a popular coffee shop (Cafe Bafa) and the Muslim Cemetery. I find the cemetery beautiful but haven't taken any pictures because it seems disrespectful. Past the cemetery there is one of the King's palaces, and then it is a 20 minute walk to the Medina.

Each day I study French for 2 hours with Kadija, except for Thursdays when her husband takes me around Tangier to speak French and learn about life in the city. Today I went to the University where there was a forum for the Engineering school. I didn't catch most of what the speakers said but I know that the school is one of the best in the country and the forum served to educate them on upcoming opportunities in their field. During the remainder of the day I have been exploring, doing homework, and job/volunteer position hunting. There are a few NGOs present in Morocco but I will have to better my French significantly before I can approach many of them:)

At this point I am starting to feel that I cannot speak French or Spanish because I keep mixing them, but I think this is a good sign that I don't automatically revert to Spanish:) It sure does make for an interesting conversation when I use three languages in the same sentence though!

Todo el Mundo es Un Escenario de Teatro

Uno de los mejores consejos que he recibido en mi vida me dio inicialmente mi profesor de teatro en el nivel séptimo, Señor Lambert.  Nuestro clase estaba practicando por nuestro primer rendimiento público, una obra de una etapa. En la edad de 13 me imaginaba como la estrella de un show de Broadway, en una carrera teatral (ni importa que me diera miedo hablar enfrente de mi claseJ). La escuela de Washington Irving solo haría el principio de mi subido a estrellato! Señor Lambert nos dijo que cada actor/actriz olvida sus líneas o próximo pasos de vez en cuando. Para asegurar que la audiencia no se da cuenta uno tenía que ‘seguir adelante con confianza’. 

En la edad de 29 tal vez no he alcanzado a mi meta de adolescencia, este consejo dirigido al escenario me ha hecho una viajera mejor. En muchas instancias no tengo ni idea donde estoy, donde voy, ni como regresar a punto ‘A’ pero nadie se da cuenta porque ando como tengo una misión. Si necesito parar y reevaluar, pretendo mirar a mi celular o buscar algo al dentro de mi bolso. Si estoy muy perdida escondo atrás de algo para revisar mi plano. Y si estoy muy muy perdida? Pregunto a la gente local, quien es muy simpática, especialmente en Marruecos.

Digo que este consejo me llego inicialmente a través de Senor Lambert porque muchos anos después una amiga me hizo acordar de la misma, pero en el contexto de mostrar confianza a través de la postura, incluso si uno no se siente confianza en el momento. Mas o menos ‘fake it til you make it’ si estas en la called, en una entrevista, o llegando a un bar. Como tu mama siempre te dijo (ok, como mi mama siempre me dijo) ponte de pie recta!

Mientras que andaba de ‘Camping Miramonte’ (donde no hago camping, pero mejor comparto una casa pequeña con otro voluntario de World Unite) bajando a través de la ciudad al Gran Socco (la plaza principal) y después a la Medina (la parte antigua de Tanger donde las calles son estrechos) andaba como estuve en una misión importante. Llegue la noche antes por barco de la ciudad español de Tarifa después de pasar dos días con mi amiga Angela en la ciudad de Motril. El Sur de Espana fue impresionante y yo contentamente me comprometí comer solamente calamares y tomar Mosto (jugo de uvas) hasta que me fui. Cuando llegue en Tanger encontré un taxi para llevarme al Miramonte. El taxista fue un buen guía turístico y gracias a dios hablo el castellano:) Cuando alcancemos a Miramonte, ya había comenzado la puesta del sol. Seguí la sugerencia de Lonely Planet (mi libro de guía) no andar sola en la calle en el oscuridad y me quede. Hice amigos con una pareja muy paciente con mi francés y cuando se fueron, comia mi primer ‘tangine’. Hablando de la perspectiva de  una vegetariana estricta (hace anos atrás) que ha cambiado a una vegetariana…selectiva, les cuento que este plato de carne fue buenísima! Incluso, tenia mi palabra francés favorita, ‘les petit pois’ (guisantes)! Pase mi primer noche en Marruecos desempacándome, feliz de tener un ‘hogar’ si solamente por dos semanas. 

El sábado comencé de andar y no pare (ok, tal vez pare probar un pastel, quizás usar el internet y comprar un SIM por mi teléfono…) hasta que llegue al Gran Socco y la Medina. Y alla, mis amigos, es donde les dejare por ahora.

All the World is a Stage

One of the best pieces of advice I have ever received came initially from my seventh grade drama teacher Mr. Lambert. Our class was practicing for our first public performance, a one-act play. At the age of 13 I envisioned a career on the stage (never mind my fear of speaking in front of my class!) as the star of a hit Broadway musical. Washington Irving Middle School was only the beginning of my rise to stardom. Mr. Lambert told us that every actor/actress forgets lines or next steps from time, but the key to the audience never finding out is to ‘move forward with confidence.’ 

At the age of 29 I may not have reached my adolescent career aspirations (yet:)) but this guidance meant for the stage has made me a much better traveler. In many instances I may have absolutely no idea where I am, where I am going, or how to get back to point A but no one around me is the wiser (at least I don't think...:)) because I move as if I am on a mission. If I need to stop and reassess, I pretend to look at my phone or find something in my purse. Then I make a very confident about-face if I realize I am going the wrong way. If I am really lost, I hide behind something and consult my map. And if I am really really lost? I start asking the locals who are always obliging, especially here in Morocco.

I say that this advice came to me initially through Mr. Lambert because years later a friend reminded me of this same concept, but in the context of showing confidence through posture even if one does not feel confident in the moment. Essentially, ‘fake it til you make it’ whether walking down the street, going into an interview, or walking into a bar. Like your mama always said (ok like my mama always said) stand up straight!

As I wandered from the ‘Camping Miramonte’ (where I am not camping, but rather sharing a bungalow with another World Unite volunteer) down through the city to the Grand Socco (essentially the main plaza) and then through the Medina (old part of Tangier where the streets are narrow) I walked like I was on a mission. I had arrived the night before by ferry from the Spanish city of Tarifa after spending two days with my friend Angela in the town of Motril. Southern Spain was breathtaking and I happily committed myself to eat only calamari and drink Mosto (grape juice) until I left. Upon arriving in Tangier I hopped in a taxi whose driver seemed intent on playing tour guide and thankfully spoke Spanish:)

 

When we reached Miramonte it was starting to get dark, and heeding Lonely Planet’s advice for single women not to walk alone in the street after dark I stayed on the premises which included a restaurant/café. I befriended a young Moroccan couple who invited me to sit with them and lent me a phone to call my contact at World Unite to confirm my arrival. The man spoke only a bit of Spanish so I was forced to use what little French I had and the couple was extremely patient. Once they left, I experienced my first tangine. As a once strict vegetarian turned ..ummm…selective vegetarian I must say that this beefy stew was amazing! As if things couldn’t get any better it also contained my favorite French word ‘les petit pois’ (peas)!  I spent the first evening in Morocco settling in and unpacking, happy to have a ‘home’ if only for two weeks. On Saturday I started walking and didn’t stop (ok, well I might have stopped to try a few pastries, and maybe to use the internet and set up my phone…) until I reached the Gran Socco and the Medina. 

And that, my friends, is where I will leave you for now.

View of the coast from a walk on the first weekend.

 View of the beach from Miramonte.

 View of Tangier hillside from Miramonte

 My room at Miramonte

 Miramonte neighborhood...

 Favorite Moroccan dog who we saved from drowning in slightly unflattering position...oops...

Commercial Break

Before I continue with reports from what has been dubbed ‘retirement’, a ‘sabbatical’, and ‘Katie’s EatPrayLove’ it has been brought to my attention that a key component of this journey has been left out: the send-off!

First, I’d like to thank my roommates, new and old, at 3622 for letting me occupy the ‘really big couch’ for the first ten days in February. This involved a sacrifice of the living room, and for some quite a lot of manpower while you helped me move my bit of stuff, which there was much more of than originally thought. I will save any elaboration on that for an upcoming post on ‘minimalism and knowing oneself’:) Not only would I like to thank them for the space, but for their time and energy as I mulled this idea around for months and months while they patiently listened…and for the fabulous going away bash!
An equally grateful shout out goes to friends, family, and my TRP folks. Thanks for your support and especially for listening.:)

Returning briefly to the subject of my ‘bit of stuff’, this adventure was made much easier by Susan and Stu, who donated a fair part of their basement to house my belongings. Thank you thank you thank you!

Lastly, I want to tell you about my last few days in the States, between Washington, DC and Madrid. I flew to NY on February 10 to stay with my Aunt Kathleen and Uncle Dennis along with my parents, who had come up to see me off. The night I arrived we all went out to dinner and then went home to chat and watch TV. My Aunt went out to bring something to my cousin, and when she returned my brother Charlie was with her! He had purchased a ticket two weeks earlier and not told anyone. My parents had not seen him since his return from deployment so this was extra special. The next day my Aunt Betty Ann drove down from Westchester to see all of us and we went to lunch. That evening my Aunt and Uncle were gracious enough to host both Wynnes and Sciarinis for a little party. After we had eaten dinner and were getting ready to dig into some cannolis someone hugged me from behind-it was my sister Colleen! She also flew in to surprise my parents and I for the weekend.:) Having the entire family in the same place (which doesn’t happen often these days) meant the world to me, and I am so thankful to my family for the perfect send-off:)

So now I hope everyone is feeling warm and fuzzy all over, I will now return you to your regularly scheduled programming.

Sangria & Calamares

This was my first thought when i arrived in Madrid...well besides 'why did i pack so much i can barely carry it?'. For those of you who have be comparing my adventure to Elizabeth Gilbert's 'Eat, Pray, Love' you now have more evidence that they are comparable. I was trying to upload you a photo of my first meal in Madrid but no luck- so hopefully next post! After arriving in Madrid dazed and excited from anticipation and jetlag, checking into my hostel, and situating myself in the Huertas neighborhood I went in search of food. I found a nice little restaurant playing the futbol (not football) game and ordered a scrumptious tapa of calamares with a glass of sangria. Sigh...it was a perfect start:) But let me back up a bit...

After one of the shortest international flights I've been on in a long time (thanks to TRP:) I landed in Dublin and encountered...the Euro. The euro and I got along quite well during my last jaunt in Europe exactly ten years ago. That was when the dollar was equal, if not worth more than, the euro. Thus our relationship has changed this time around after I finally conceded that yes, it had won and I would have to change my expectations of how helpful it could be to me. Thankfully, other changes I've noticed are for the better (mostly having to do with my approach and perception)! For instance, I can now really speak Spanish. Last night two people asked me if I was from Madrid...well two other foreigners...but I was flattered! (I am sure that not just my language but my awesome dancing played a part in this determination). In the wisdom that comes with ten years, I finally appreciate really good wine. This was not case back in 2001, when I didn't really drink much of anything! Lastly, I feel much more confident as a traveler navigating my way around town, using public transport, and talking to strangers. It is a bit weird to be by myself most of the time though (hence the talking to strangers part).

Fortunatley I love to talk to strangers, which I attribute to my father always talking to strangers when we were growing up. We would wait in the car after church or in Giant after a shopping trip because had was either talking to a neighbor or had made a new friend. When I was a teenager this embarrassed me for some reason but now I have come to appreciate it. Thanks Dad!

So, highlights of my first few days in Madrid:

• the Prado (Guernica, other Pablo Picasso works, Dali, Miro, etc.)
• the Reina Sofia (more classic paintings- a favorite was the 'Jardin de Delicias' by Bosco)
• aimlessly wandering through the streets of Las Huertas on Day 1, then checking out two plazas and the Puerta del Sol on my way to an international bookstore. The bookstore was a hike from where I was but I figured I needed the exercise. This turned out to be quite worth-it when I found the French-Spanish dictionary I was looking for!
• Eating a 'Menu del Dia' in the plaza near the hostel, when the sun was shining and musicians were playing, etc.
• My Brazilian speech-therapist roommate! She had never taken Spanish and I only know the word for thank you in Portuguese, however we managed to communicate just fine. Oh yes, and she is also a dancer!

Spiderman dancing with toursits in Plaza Mayor

 Neat-o building design!

Cool Painting in the Prado

Painting of Juan Gris's wife in the cubist style- wondering if she would be flattered or not?

Dance buddies! The club only played music in English...

I am now in Motril, near Granada, staying with a friend and her mother for the next two days until I head to Tangier. I will be staying in accommodations and taking French classes arranged by World Unite there. Crossing my fingers that nothing erupts in the next few days, however democracy certainly trumps french lessons...Viva Egypt!