Wednesday, April 27, 2011
Monday, April 18, 2011
I wonder where we are? OR (cue saxaphone) "I'm never gonna dance again"
It was tough to decide on a title for this one so I went with both. The first has been the most common phrase uttered since coming to Fez and the second a 'theme song' of sorts. Have I mentioned that Morocco is a great place to relive the 80s and 90s music scene?
My German housemate and I left on the early train to Fez Saturday morning after a bit of a late night listening to jazz on the beach with a mix of Moroccan and expat friends. We were in second class which was not too shabby. The orange seats were comfy and in a compartment meant for 8, we were lucky enough to only share with two others for the greater part of 5 hours. It was pretty quiet in the early hour...until the man across from me decided to listen to his MP3 player. We were all brought back to the 80s when we (clearly) heard the crooning sax and dramatic tune that filled the compartment, although it was only meant for the owner of the ear buds...for 5 hours! There was a bit of variation, but it was evident that our fellow passenger had a special place in his heart for this ballad. Oh the joy of public transportation:)
We arrived in Fez around 1pm and were lucky enough to find a hotel a few blocks from the train station (FYI-very impressed by all of the train stations in Morocco!) After consulting the Lonely Planet map and deciding to wander in the direction of the medina, we were off through the down town which (sans obvious signs that we were in a Muslim country) could have been a town in southern Florida. We passed a breathtaking mosque that almost trumped the biggest one in Tangier and turned left onto the main boulevard lined with towering palm trees and well planned landscaping. Continuing on we later hit the massive wall that wraps around the King's palace. We entered what we thought was the medina in search of food, and I was pleasantly surprised at how calm it was compared to my previous experience in Marrakesh. Lured by a well placed sign for Moroccan cuisine we found ourselves in a tranquil patio garden eating a variety of Moroccan salads and drinking mint tea.
Full and content, we again consulted the map and realized that we had no idea where we had ended up. (Note: the medina in Fez is massive and incredibly confusing, however at that point we had still not actually made it to the medina...) So, newly confident of the 'right' direction we were off...until we ran into a giant cooperative of artisans. Guidebooks and felloa travelers had warned us of the dangers of entering so establishments 'just to look' but after a few minutes we had not seen a salesperson so figured we were safe...until we were cornered in the pottery room. Most of the workers were busy selling rugs to a Portuguese tour group but one was left to hold us captive with tea and promises of a 'good price just for you'. Mia generously took one for the team by purchasing the smallest thing she could find and we figured we were safe...until the tapestries appeared. All colors, sizes and styles were available including the elusive 'aphrodisiac brown'. It really did seem like a neat cooperative, wich worked with divorced Moroccan women, but since both of us were trying to stay on a budget (and I am about to move an already bulging backpack to another country) we just weren't interested. After about an hour we made it out peacefully with no more than Mia's trinket.
Determined to find the medina we pressed on but found ourselves in a gigantic lovely garden in what we later found out was the old Jewish quarter. I guess it wasn't a garden as much as a park, but there was a small stream that flowed into a pond against a backdrop of part of the castle wall and a tiny island of palm trees. Local kids were throwing oranges in, despite the security around the orange trees in the park. I couldn't help thinking that if someone set up a gondola ride in the pond, and the stream was just a little wider that someone could make some serious money! Even better if the gondolas were in the shape of giant traditional Moroccan shoes....(picture forthcoming) but I digress....
After a peaceful rest we set off once more, and this time we were sure (ok maybe Mia was sure and I was just going along with it) that we knew the way to the elusive medina. First we walked in a complete circle. Then we found ourselves in a neighborhood that was clearly more for locals than tourists, but we had a hunch that if we just followed that tiny alleyway...and then the little boy asked us where we were going. The moment we stopped to chat with him was our downfall, because like ants, kids travel in packs. We tried to continue without the group (especially because it was a given that the kids would ask for money soon) but it was useless. I sealed our fate when I couldn't help lingering over a tray of freshly baked cookies that a woman was carrying (which she let me taste after she saw me drooling). The stop drew even more children and we continued to get even more lost in the random neighborhood. Finally, we had to give in. The kids led us out of the neighborhood into an open square, where we then ended up paying them 10 dirham for the service.
As the sun was starting to set we concluded that we would try to find the medina again tomorrow and caught a cab to the nicest hotel (a former palace) in Marrakesh to watch the sunset on a patio overlooking the medina. Sigh. A great end to an adventurous day. Back at the hotel we were both excited for the TV and the Moroccan version of American Idol. I bet you can guess what song they sang on the show! The day had come full circle. While we may not have known where we were for most of it, I can honestly say it was a great start to the weekend.
My German housemate and I left on the early train to Fez Saturday morning after a bit of a late night listening to jazz on the beach with a mix of Moroccan and expat friends. We were in second class which was not too shabby. The orange seats were comfy and in a compartment meant for 8, we were lucky enough to only share with two others for the greater part of 5 hours. It was pretty quiet in the early hour...until the man across from me decided to listen to his MP3 player. We were all brought back to the 80s when we (clearly) heard the crooning sax and dramatic tune that filled the compartment, although it was only meant for the owner of the ear buds...for 5 hours! There was a bit of variation, but it was evident that our fellow passenger had a special place in his heart for this ballad. Oh the joy of public transportation:)
We arrived in Fez around 1pm and were lucky enough to find a hotel a few blocks from the train station (FYI-very impressed by all of the train stations in Morocco!) After consulting the Lonely Planet map and deciding to wander in the direction of the medina, we were off through the down town which (sans obvious signs that we were in a Muslim country) could have been a town in southern Florida. We passed a breathtaking mosque that almost trumped the biggest one in Tangier and turned left onto the main boulevard lined with towering palm trees and well planned landscaping. Continuing on we later hit the massive wall that wraps around the King's palace. We entered what we thought was the medina in search of food, and I was pleasantly surprised at how calm it was compared to my previous experience in Marrakesh. Lured by a well placed sign for Moroccan cuisine we found ourselves in a tranquil patio garden eating a variety of Moroccan salads and drinking mint tea.
Full and content, we again consulted the map and realized that we had no idea where we had ended up. (Note: the medina in Fez is massive and incredibly confusing, however at that point we had still not actually made it to the medina...) So, newly confident of the 'right' direction we were off...until we ran into a giant cooperative of artisans. Guidebooks and felloa travelers had warned us of the dangers of entering so establishments 'just to look' but after a few minutes we had not seen a salesperson so figured we were safe...until we were cornered in the pottery room. Most of the workers were busy selling rugs to a Portuguese tour group but one was left to hold us captive with tea and promises of a 'good price just for you'. Mia generously took one for the team by purchasing the smallest thing she could find and we figured we were safe...until the tapestries appeared. All colors, sizes and styles were available including the elusive 'aphrodisiac brown'. It really did seem like a neat cooperative, wich worked with divorced Moroccan women, but since both of us were trying to stay on a budget (and I am about to move an already bulging backpack to another country) we just weren't interested. After about an hour we made it out peacefully with no more than Mia's trinket.
Determined to find the medina we pressed on but found ourselves in a gigantic lovely garden in what we later found out was the old Jewish quarter. I guess it wasn't a garden as much as a park, but there was a small stream that flowed into a pond against a backdrop of part of the castle wall and a tiny island of palm trees. Local kids were throwing oranges in, despite the security around the orange trees in the park. I couldn't help thinking that if someone set up a gondola ride in the pond, and the stream was just a little wider that someone could make some serious money! Even better if the gondolas were in the shape of giant traditional Moroccan shoes....(picture forthcoming) but I digress....
After a peaceful rest we set off once more, and this time we were sure (ok maybe Mia was sure and I was just going along with it) that we knew the way to the elusive medina. First we walked in a complete circle. Then we found ourselves in a neighborhood that was clearly more for locals than tourists, but we had a hunch that if we just followed that tiny alleyway...and then the little boy asked us where we were going. The moment we stopped to chat with him was our downfall, because like ants, kids travel in packs. We tried to continue without the group (especially because it was a given that the kids would ask for money soon) but it was useless. I sealed our fate when I couldn't help lingering over a tray of freshly baked cookies that a woman was carrying (which she let me taste after she saw me drooling). The stop drew even more children and we continued to get even more lost in the random neighborhood. Finally, we had to give in. The kids led us out of the neighborhood into an open square, where we then ended up paying them 10 dirham for the service.
As the sun was starting to set we concluded that we would try to find the medina again tomorrow and caught a cab to the nicest hotel (a former palace) in Marrakesh to watch the sunset on a patio overlooking the medina. Sigh. A great end to an adventurous day. Back at the hotel we were both excited for the TV and the Moroccan version of American Idol. I bet you can guess what song they sang on the show! The day had come full circle. While we may not have known where we were for most of it, I can honestly say it was a great start to the weekend.
Friday, April 8, 2011
Sometimes I Forget
Sometimes I forget where I am. Not in the sense that I wear really scandalous outfits out in public, or am surprised when I can't find certain products that are commonplace in the US. But little things tip me off to the fact that I have either forgotten that the society I am currently in has a different perspective, or in contrast make me realize that there are some things in Morocco that I have really gotten used to.
There is a great movie theater in the main square called 'Cinema Rif'. This is a combo movie house and cafe where many foreigners and the artistic Moroccan crowd frequents. There are 1-2 films each day of a varying genre. Yesterday I went with one of my roommates to see 'VickiCristinaBarcelona' which was shown in French. Anyone who has seen this movie knows there are several scenes of a sexual nature, some involving bisexuality. When the lights were turned on at the end of the movie there were only 4 people left in theater including my friend and I. (The other two were a couple who were sitting in the far back, and I don't think they were watching the movie...) While I had not noticed the gradual exit of the other patrons, my friend had realized that during each scene where there was kissing or anything more groups would exit. We were reminded that movies like this are still taboo here as sex or kissing outside of marriage is forbidden.
On a similar note, Monday night I went out to an open mic night with a few friends. Usually I don't stay out very late because my French course is at 9am each morning but on Monday I finally ventured to the next bar with the crowd from open mic night. Bar number 2 was also on the beach, and we got there around 11:30pm. (Monday night is a major going out night in Tangier, who knew?) The bar played mostly American rock music which is popular with this particular crowd. All of a sudden...I saw a young man and woman dancing together! I mean..they were touching each other and they weren't married. You just don't see this kind of thing here, and if you do it is in the dark corners of a dimly lit restaurant but never in a public place. The fact that my initial reaction to this was shock causes me to realize how accustomed I have become to this part of the culture, but is a stark contrast to the previous taboo that I overlooked completely.
In describing these differences between Morocco and the US or even Ecuador I want to emphasize that the level of my awareness regarding similarities in Moroccans vs other countries I have been to or to the US greatly surpasses my awareness of the differences. For instance, I am constantly feeling a nostalgia for Ecuador when I am in the home of a Moroccan family. The kindness, generosity, (and the amount of food and drink you are offered!) is virtually the same. People very genuinely want you to feel at home in their country, so strangers you have just met will invite you to their homes or for a coffee. Both Moroccans and Ecuadorians will go far out of their way to make you comfortable. I also see so many similarities between conservative Islam and 'los evangelicos' or conservative Christianity. Many of the same things are forbidden/taboo. And in both religions the faith placed in God and Allah is truly incredible. On the same note of religion there are different levels of faith, dress, etc. in Islam and it seems that everyone pretty much gets along. Having only lived here for 2 months I am sure I am missing many divisions and similarities, and hope to again have the opportunity to live in Morocco so I can continue learning.
While perhaps it sounds cliche, everyday I am reminded in one way or another how similar people are wherever you go. Thus, it confuses me more and more the fear that we have of the things that we perceive as 'different'. There is a fear of Islam that I think is perpetuated by the media and to some extent the government (especially the previous administration) that I find is exploited for political gain, and really robs us of the curiosity that would help to close those gaps of understanding. YES there are extremist groups but they exist in all religions, governments, cultures, etc. When it comes down to it we all want the same things as human beings. Healthy, happy, families and a bit of fun every once in awhile.
Sorry if there was a lot of jumping around in this post, hopefully it made sense. I hope to write another one specifically with some Islam Q & A before I leave. If you have a Q please send it and I will do my research to find an answer:)
There is a great movie theater in the main square called 'Cinema Rif'. This is a combo movie house and cafe where many foreigners and the artistic Moroccan crowd frequents. There are 1-2 films each day of a varying genre. Yesterday I went with one of my roommates to see 'VickiCristinaBarcelona' which was shown in French. Anyone who has seen this movie knows there are several scenes of a sexual nature, some involving bisexuality. When the lights were turned on at the end of the movie there were only 4 people left in theater including my friend and I. (The other two were a couple who were sitting in the far back, and I don't think they were watching the movie...) While I had not noticed the gradual exit of the other patrons, my friend had realized that during each scene where there was kissing or anything more groups would exit. We were reminded that movies like this are still taboo here as sex or kissing outside of marriage is forbidden.
On a similar note, Monday night I went out to an open mic night with a few friends. Usually I don't stay out very late because my French course is at 9am each morning but on Monday I finally ventured to the next bar with the crowd from open mic night. Bar number 2 was also on the beach, and we got there around 11:30pm. (Monday night is a major going out night in Tangier, who knew?) The bar played mostly American rock music which is popular with this particular crowd. All of a sudden...I saw a young man and woman dancing together! I mean..they were touching each other and they weren't married. You just don't see this kind of thing here, and if you do it is in the dark corners of a dimly lit restaurant but never in a public place. The fact that my initial reaction to this was shock causes me to realize how accustomed I have become to this part of the culture, but is a stark contrast to the previous taboo that I overlooked completely.
In describing these differences between Morocco and the US or even Ecuador I want to emphasize that the level of my awareness regarding similarities in Moroccans vs other countries I have been to or to the US greatly surpasses my awareness of the differences. For instance, I am constantly feeling a nostalgia for Ecuador when I am in the home of a Moroccan family. The kindness, generosity, (and the amount of food and drink you are offered!) is virtually the same. People very genuinely want you to feel at home in their country, so strangers you have just met will invite you to their homes or for a coffee. Both Moroccans and Ecuadorians will go far out of their way to make you comfortable. I also see so many similarities between conservative Islam and 'los evangelicos' or conservative Christianity. Many of the same things are forbidden/taboo. And in both religions the faith placed in God and Allah is truly incredible. On the same note of religion there are different levels of faith, dress, etc. in Islam and it seems that everyone pretty much gets along. Having only lived here for 2 months I am sure I am missing many divisions and similarities, and hope to again have the opportunity to live in Morocco so I can continue learning.
While perhaps it sounds cliche, everyday I am reminded in one way or another how similar people are wherever you go. Thus, it confuses me more and more the fear that we have of the things that we perceive as 'different'. There is a fear of Islam that I think is perpetuated by the media and to some extent the government (especially the previous administration) that I find is exploited for political gain, and really robs us of the curiosity that would help to close those gaps of understanding. YES there are extremist groups but they exist in all religions, governments, cultures, etc. When it comes down to it we all want the same things as human beings. Healthy, happy, families and a bit of fun every once in awhile.
Sorry if there was a lot of jumping around in this post, hopefully it made sense. I hope to write another one specifically with some Islam Q & A before I leave. If you have a Q please send it and I will do my research to find an answer:)
Monday, April 4, 2011
Give It Time
Things seem to be falling into place. It has been awhile since I've blogged and will try to add new pix later, but don't have the patience for the slow internet connection right now. I was realizing this week how truly lucky I am to have had this experience and such a great opportunity to see the world and take time to think about what I really want.
While not everything has gone as planned (housing, weather, and a few others) it has all seemed to work out that way for a reason. I never would have ended up in Tangier without the promise of a free place to crash, but am so glad I will be able to spend 2 months here. My procrastination/patience (however you want to view it) has been rewarded most of the time with cheap plane tickets, free places to stay in tropical locations, and diversions from my itinerary that turn out to actually be the best thing!
I now have 2 weeks left in Tangier and 3 weeks total left in Morocco. I will spend the third week seeing two cities that I want to see before I head out and maybe dropping off additional CVs in the capital city. From there (cue jealousy:) I will fly to Phuket, Thailand to stay with a former colleague who is also job hunting (thank you thank you!) in an extra room for a week. Finally, I will head to Bangkok to 'pound the pavement' and will volunteer outside of the city after a week or so if no opportunities have been found. So that is the new plan.
It is getting warm in Tangier which means my wardrobe has expanded exponentially from the fleece and sweater I wore over every article of clothing for the 4 weeks pre-Marrakesh. There are two new volunteers in the apartment (both German) who are loads of fun, we get a long great! And this week I realized that I can check off 2 goals pre-30th birthday!
1. Learn a new language. Check. I may not be perfect but I can carry on a conversation and understand most of what the other person is saying!
2. Living in an Islamic country. I've just always been fascinated by Islam so this has been a great experience! I realize Morocco is a pretty open-minded country vs. some of its neighbors, but I figure I will visit those neighbors at some point. Once I've conquered french, hopefully arabic will follow....inshallah :)
More posts to come (really, they will) but just wanted to share my feelings of contentedness with everyone. Hope you are well and feel free to send me a skype or an email when you get the chance!
While not everything has gone as planned (housing, weather, and a few others) it has all seemed to work out that way for a reason. I never would have ended up in Tangier without the promise of a free place to crash, but am so glad I will be able to spend 2 months here. My procrastination/patience (however you want to view it) has been rewarded most of the time with cheap plane tickets, free places to stay in tropical locations, and diversions from my itinerary that turn out to actually be the best thing!
I now have 2 weeks left in Tangier and 3 weeks total left in Morocco. I will spend the third week seeing two cities that I want to see before I head out and maybe dropping off additional CVs in the capital city. From there (cue jealousy:) I will fly to Phuket, Thailand to stay with a former colleague who is also job hunting (thank you thank you!) in an extra room for a week. Finally, I will head to Bangkok to 'pound the pavement' and will volunteer outside of the city after a week or so if no opportunities have been found. So that is the new plan.
It is getting warm in Tangier which means my wardrobe has expanded exponentially from the fleece and sweater I wore over every article of clothing for the 4 weeks pre-Marrakesh. There are two new volunteers in the apartment (both German) who are loads of fun, we get a long great! And this week I realized that I can check off 2 goals pre-30th birthday!
1. Learn a new language. Check. I may not be perfect but I can carry on a conversation and understand most of what the other person is saying!
2. Living in an Islamic country. I've just always been fascinated by Islam so this has been a great experience! I realize Morocco is a pretty open-minded country vs. some of its neighbors, but I figure I will visit those neighbors at some point. Once I've conquered french, hopefully arabic will follow....inshallah :)
More posts to come (really, they will) but just wanted to share my feelings of contentedness with everyone. Hope you are well and feel free to send me a skype or an email when you get the chance!
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