It was tough to decide on a title for this one so I went with both. The first has been the most common phrase uttered since coming to Fez and the second a 'theme song' of sorts. Have I mentioned that Morocco is a great place to relive the 80s and 90s music scene?
My German housemate and I left on the early train to Fez Saturday morning after a bit of a late night listening to jazz on the beach with a mix of Moroccan and expat friends. We were in second class which was not too shabby. The orange seats were comfy and in a compartment meant for 8, we were lucky enough to only share with two others for the greater part of 5 hours. It was pretty quiet in the early hour...until the man across from me decided to listen to his MP3 player. We were all brought back to the 80s when we (clearly) heard the crooning sax and dramatic tune that filled the compartment, although it was only meant for the owner of the ear buds...for 5 hours! There was a bit of variation, but it was evident that our fellow passenger had a special place in his heart for this ballad. Oh the joy of public transportation:)
We arrived in Fez around 1pm and were lucky enough to find a hotel a few blocks from the train station (FYI-very impressed by all of the train stations in Morocco!) After consulting the Lonely Planet map and deciding to wander in the direction of the medina, we were off through the down town which (sans obvious signs that we were in a Muslim country) could have been a town in southern Florida. We passed a breathtaking mosque that almost trumped the biggest one in Tangier and turned left onto the main boulevard lined with towering palm trees and well planned landscaping. Continuing on we later hit the massive wall that wraps around the King's palace. We entered what we thought was the medina in search of food, and I was pleasantly surprised at how calm it was compared to my previous experience in Marrakesh. Lured by a well placed sign for Moroccan cuisine we found ourselves in a tranquil patio garden eating a variety of Moroccan salads and drinking mint tea.
Full and content, we again consulted the map and realized that we had no idea where we had ended up. (Note: the medina in Fez is massive and incredibly confusing, however at that point we had still not actually made it to the medina...) So, newly confident of the 'right' direction we were off...until we ran into a giant cooperative of artisans. Guidebooks and felloa travelers had warned us of the dangers of entering so establishments 'just to look' but after a few minutes we had not seen a salesperson so figured we were safe...until we were cornered in the pottery room. Most of the workers were busy selling rugs to a Portuguese tour group but one was left to hold us captive with tea and promises of a 'good price just for you'. Mia generously took one for the team by purchasing the smallest thing she could find and we figured we were safe...until the tapestries appeared. All colors, sizes and styles were available including the elusive 'aphrodisiac brown'. It really did seem like a neat cooperative, wich worked with divorced Moroccan women, but since both of us were trying to stay on a budget (and I am about to move an already bulging backpack to another country) we just weren't interested. After about an hour we made it out peacefully with no more than Mia's trinket.
Determined to find the medina we pressed on but found ourselves in a gigantic lovely garden in what we later found out was the old Jewish quarter. I guess it wasn't a garden as much as a park, but there was a small stream that flowed into a pond against a backdrop of part of the castle wall and a tiny island of palm trees. Local kids were throwing oranges in, despite the security around the orange trees in the park. I couldn't help thinking that if someone set up a gondola ride in the pond, and the stream was just a little wider that someone could make some serious money! Even better if the gondolas were in the shape of giant traditional Moroccan shoes....(picture forthcoming) but I digress....
After a peaceful rest we set off once more, and this time we were sure (ok maybe Mia was sure and I was just going along with it) that we knew the way to the elusive medina. First we walked in a complete circle. Then we found ourselves in a neighborhood that was clearly more for locals than tourists, but we had a hunch that if we just followed that tiny alleyway...and then the little boy asked us where we were going. The moment we stopped to chat with him was our downfall, because like ants, kids travel in packs. We tried to continue without the group (especially because it was a given that the kids would ask for money soon) but it was useless. I sealed our fate when I couldn't help lingering over a tray of freshly baked cookies that a woman was carrying (which she let me taste after she saw me drooling). The stop drew even more children and we continued to get even more lost in the random neighborhood. Finally, we had to give in. The kids led us out of the neighborhood into an open square, where we then ended up paying them 10 dirham for the service.
As the sun was starting to set we concluded that we would try to find the medina again tomorrow and caught a cab to the nicest hotel (a former palace) in Marrakesh to watch the sunset on a patio overlooking the medina. Sigh. A great end to an adventurous day. Back at the hotel we were both excited for the TV and the Moroccan version of American Idol. I bet you can guess what song they sang on the show! The day had come full circle. While we may not have known where we were for most of it, I can honestly say it was a great start to the weekend.
My German housemate and I left on the early train to Fez Saturday morning after a bit of a late night listening to jazz on the beach with a mix of Moroccan and expat friends. We were in second class which was not too shabby. The orange seats were comfy and in a compartment meant for 8, we were lucky enough to only share with two others for the greater part of 5 hours. It was pretty quiet in the early hour...until the man across from me decided to listen to his MP3 player. We were all brought back to the 80s when we (clearly) heard the crooning sax and dramatic tune that filled the compartment, although it was only meant for the owner of the ear buds...for 5 hours! There was a bit of variation, but it was evident that our fellow passenger had a special place in his heart for this ballad. Oh the joy of public transportation:)
We arrived in Fez around 1pm and were lucky enough to find a hotel a few blocks from the train station (FYI-very impressed by all of the train stations in Morocco!) After consulting the Lonely Planet map and deciding to wander in the direction of the medina, we were off through the down town which (sans obvious signs that we were in a Muslim country) could have been a town in southern Florida. We passed a breathtaking mosque that almost trumped the biggest one in Tangier and turned left onto the main boulevard lined with towering palm trees and well planned landscaping. Continuing on we later hit the massive wall that wraps around the King's palace. We entered what we thought was the medina in search of food, and I was pleasantly surprised at how calm it was compared to my previous experience in Marrakesh. Lured by a well placed sign for Moroccan cuisine we found ourselves in a tranquil patio garden eating a variety of Moroccan salads and drinking mint tea.
Full and content, we again consulted the map and realized that we had no idea where we had ended up. (Note: the medina in Fez is massive and incredibly confusing, however at that point we had still not actually made it to the medina...) So, newly confident of the 'right' direction we were off...until we ran into a giant cooperative of artisans. Guidebooks and felloa travelers had warned us of the dangers of entering so establishments 'just to look' but after a few minutes we had not seen a salesperson so figured we were safe...until we were cornered in the pottery room. Most of the workers were busy selling rugs to a Portuguese tour group but one was left to hold us captive with tea and promises of a 'good price just for you'. Mia generously took one for the team by purchasing the smallest thing she could find and we figured we were safe...until the tapestries appeared. All colors, sizes and styles were available including the elusive 'aphrodisiac brown'. It really did seem like a neat cooperative, wich worked with divorced Moroccan women, but since both of us were trying to stay on a budget (and I am about to move an already bulging backpack to another country) we just weren't interested. After about an hour we made it out peacefully with no more than Mia's trinket.
Determined to find the medina we pressed on but found ourselves in a gigantic lovely garden in what we later found out was the old Jewish quarter. I guess it wasn't a garden as much as a park, but there was a small stream that flowed into a pond against a backdrop of part of the castle wall and a tiny island of palm trees. Local kids were throwing oranges in, despite the security around the orange trees in the park. I couldn't help thinking that if someone set up a gondola ride in the pond, and the stream was just a little wider that someone could make some serious money! Even better if the gondolas were in the shape of giant traditional Moroccan shoes....(picture forthcoming) but I digress....
After a peaceful rest we set off once more, and this time we were sure (ok maybe Mia was sure and I was just going along with it) that we knew the way to the elusive medina. First we walked in a complete circle. Then we found ourselves in a neighborhood that was clearly more for locals than tourists, but we had a hunch that if we just followed that tiny alleyway...and then the little boy asked us where we were going. The moment we stopped to chat with him was our downfall, because like ants, kids travel in packs. We tried to continue without the group (especially because it was a given that the kids would ask for money soon) but it was useless. I sealed our fate when I couldn't help lingering over a tray of freshly baked cookies that a woman was carrying (which she let me taste after she saw me drooling). The stop drew even more children and we continued to get even more lost in the random neighborhood. Finally, we had to give in. The kids led us out of the neighborhood into an open square, where we then ended up paying them 10 dirham for the service.
As the sun was starting to set we concluded that we would try to find the medina again tomorrow and caught a cab to the nicest hotel (a former palace) in Marrakesh to watch the sunset on a patio overlooking the medina. Sigh. A great end to an adventurous day. Back at the hotel we were both excited for the TV and the Moroccan version of American Idol. I bet you can guess what song they sang on the show! The day had come full circle. While we may not have known where we were for most of it, I can honestly say it was a great start to the weekend.
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